Train ride, Vladivostok to Irkutsk.
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| Trans Siberian Express Train 007 |
Trans Siberian train 007. This train was finishing it’s journey in Novokuznetsk, which is a few stops further on from where we got off in Irkutsk.
I understand that sometimes the 007 train goes all the way from Vladivostok to Moscow, and, in this case, as a consequence the crew did not speak much English.
Be aware that the train times given throughout, and at the various railway stations along the way are in Moscow time, approx. 7 hours behind Vladivostok. The clocks on the station concourse are in Moscow time. A bit strange but get use to it as it gets more confusing as you go along!
Our train left at 7.10PM local time, 12.10PM Moscow time. We had an ‘E’ ticket and went directly to the platform. Our train was 007 and this is clearly displayed on the board. Not being the busiest station in the world the Trans Siberian was pretty easy to work out. Basically red and grey carriages with a big, shiny, red engine.
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| 1st class Trans Siberian train 007 |
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| 1st class Trans Siberian train 007 |
Boarding time was 6.30pm. We were in first class accommodation. This was our own compartment opening onto a narrow passageway. There is a ‘guard’ that is charge of each carriage, and to be fair they rule the roost. I caught my lady guard, Olga, berating a passenger as they were smoking in the bit between the 2 carriages. I don’t think that person will smoke ever again!
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| 1st Class corridor Trans Siberian Express 007 |
Having said that, we had Olga. A very nice, little lady who spoke zero English, but was happy to read my google translate, however my keyboard in Russian was not working so sign language was the answer from her. It worked.
Just after we left Vladivostok she came to our ‘room’ and explained, I think!, no smoking, put any toilet paper in the bin not the toilet. How to lock the door from the inside, how to call in an emergency. Where the shower was (That was funny her trying to describe a shower), and most of all important where the restaurant was. One worry was that alcohol was not allowed in the room, however Olga saw my can of beer and pointed out my indiscretion and basically turned a blind eye to it. However I am told the police are not so nice about it so keep it hidden or the door closed.
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| 1st class Trans Siberian Express 007 Toilet |
There is NO Wi-Fi on the train.
We travelled first class, the cost was not a lot more than 2nd class and well worth the extra money. In first class there are only 2 beds, which remain set throughout the trip. We each got one free meal. There are more toilets per amount of passengers than in 2nd class. That is about all the benefits of first class.
2nd class you will find yourself in a 4-bed berth, one above the other, either side.
3rd class is basically a dormitory.
There is very little ‘living space’ on 2nd and 3rd class.
Then the restaurant assistant came to visit us. In first class you are entitled to one free meal a day, did we want breakfast or evening meal? Again, zero English, and she shouted if we didn’t understand. We opted for the one free breakfast each, I think!
With regard to breakfast, we went to the restaurant car between 9am and 11am, sat down, but I think we should have taken breakfast as another lady came around earlier with porridge and beef to our corridor. Anyway, after lots of handwaving, flashing of money, people looking and both trying to help and laugh, her shouting louder, and probably a dog barking somewhere, we were given 2 plates of beef salad, water and some sort of flat coke/herbal concoction, chocolate bars, and sweets. We also had a beer and a cup of tea which we had to pay for, 260 Rubles.
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| Beer 1st Class Trans Siberian Express 007 |
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| Breakfast 1st Class Trans Siberian Express 007 |
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| Beer 1st Class Trans Siberian Express 007 |
On other mornings, there was a lady walking up and down with various wares to sell. I had a plate of rice one day. This came with honey. Nice enough for about 200 Rubles.
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| Breakfast rice. Trans Siberian train 007 |
Back to the first evening.
We settled in, our room is basic, but functional. Two seating benches facing back and forward, ample storage. Lots of lamps, and power sockets. There is no key to lock the door from the outside if you go out, so we took the risk. Remember of course that Herr Flick, the carriage guard is walking up and down most of the time and knows who is who and where they ‘live.’ Also armed police are on board patrolling the train. This compartment is ok for 2 people but living in a 4 berth with people you don’t know may be very ‘cosy.’
We went to the restaurant car, there were not many people there. To be fair over the 4 days we were on there I only saw the same people, most of whom were from our corridor.
Although not a word of English is spoken there is a menu in English. The food is basic but nice. I had a schnitzel of some description with mash potato, and a couple of bottles of .5L sized beer, the bill came to around 600 Rubles. However we later had some fruit which consisted of an orange, an apple, 4 tinned strawberries, and a spoon of tinned pineapple. That on its own cost about 750 Rubles. That is a complete rip off.
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| Dining car Trans Siberian Express Train 007 |
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| Dining car Trans Siberian Express Train 007 |
Like everywhere, staff are nice if you smile a lot, and give a tip. Speaking of which I saw Olga (Herr Flick in charge of my carriage) and gave her 20 US$. I have been told that this makes life a little easier on board. I did check first, via Google translate, that she was staying on the train until we got off.
Back to the compartment, what to do? Take lots of books, or Kindle books, but remember to download first as no Wi-Fi. Load games, BBC I Player, Google movies, etc. Podcasts, but ensure the settings are not set to erase after listening as your partner may want to swop devices after a few days.
About 10pm we returned to the bar. Still the same old faces in there. Couple of beers for 150 to 200 rubles each.
Essentials to take on the trip.
Toilet paper. Charging leads and ideally a junction box for multi charging. If a vegetarian or vegan, etc., take some food. Everything appears served with ham. Lots of rubles in small notes. There is no ATM, or facility to change foreign money. Take cups, as there is a hot water urn at the end of the carriage. Good for tea bags, pot noodles etc.
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| Tea Urn, Hot water, Trans Siberian train 007 |
There is drinking water from a fountain, however I chose to take boiling water from the urn, decant to a water bottle and leave to cool. Bottles of water are available but I paid 240 rubles for a litre bottle on board.
Light clothing, although you are in Siberia the train is hot, I wore crocs, shorts, and a t shirt throughout the train ride.
In the corridor outside the compartment is a list in both Russian and English showing the stops, and amount of time at each stop. It also shows the different time zones we travel through. 3 in total to Irkutsk. Olga made sure she came and told us how long the next stop was, and also kept an eye out for us ensuring we got back on time.
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| Time table, Trans Siberian Train 007 |
It is not my intention to go through each day, as it was really groundhog day. If you like Silver Birch trees and snow, then this is the place for you. Just make sure you take some entertainment with you. The 4 days and 3 nights went quickly.
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| Views of Siberia. Trans Siberian Train 007 |
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| Views of Siberia. Trans Siberian Train 007 |
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| Views of Siberia. Trans Siberian Train 007 |
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| Views of Siberia. Trans Siberian Train 007 |
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| Views of Siberia. Trans Siberian Train 007 |
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| Views of Siberia. Trans Siberian Train 007 |
Dealing with stops.
The board in the corridor shows clearly how long the stop is. It may be prudent not to get off on a 2 minute stop.
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| Food for sale, Trans Siberian Express |
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| 20 minute stop, Trans Siberian Train |
If you don’t know the guard I suggest you take your ticket with you to prove whom you are.
On the longer stops there are generally stalls and shop selling all sorts of food and drink. On one stop there is a 30-minute stop with a supermarket outside. A number of people got off and went to the supermarket. To be honest I was not going to go anywhere far from the carriage. I plumbed for the local stalls set up by local ladies. They do a great trade in boiled potatoes, and also boiled eggs at most stops.
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| Station food Trans Siberian Express |
In addition there are a few stops where meat patties and pies are sold. These are generally of good quality and I did not have tummy troubles as a result. If you are on a budget then the ‘platform’ food is the way forward.
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